Equus Dreams

Equine Health Issues

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Equine Nutrition The Equine Cecum and Probiotics Mud Fever / Grease Heel / Scratches Emergency Preparedness Grey Horse Melanomas Pasture Vs. Stable Radiation Therapy for Equine Cancer Patients Feeding Beet Pulp Cushings, Laminitis, Equine Metabolic Syndrome Toxic Plants

The Equine Cecum and Probiotics

The cecum is a sack approximately four-feet long that can hold up to 40 quarts of food and fluid. Similar to the rumen in a cow, the cecum is a microbial inoculation vat. Microbes in the cecum break down feed that was not digested in the small intestine, particularly fibrous feeds like hay and grass.

Because its entrance and exit are both at the top of the organ, the cecum is odd in design. This means that the feed enters at the top, mixes throughout, and is then expelled up at the top. This design is the cause of problems if an animal eats a lot of dry feeds without adequate water or if a rapid change of diet occurs. Both may cause a compaction in the lower end of the cecum, which in turn produces pain (colic). The microbial population in a cecum is somewhat specific as to what feed it can digest.

If a change of feed occurs, it takes about three weeks to develop a microbial population that can digest a new feed and maintain a normal flow through the cecum. A general rule for safely changing feeds:

Week 1: Feed a mix of three-fourths of the old ration and one-fourth of the new ration.

Week 2: Feed a mix of one-half of the old ration and one-half of the new ration.

Week 3: Feed a mix of one-fourth of the old ration and three-fourths of the new ration.

Week 4: Feed all new ration.

Feed will remain in the cecum for about seven hours, allowing bacteria time to start breaking it down. The microbes will produce vitamin K, B-complex vitamins, proteins, and fatty acids. The vitamins and fatty acids will be absorbed, but little if any protein will be absorbed.

Feeding probiotics daily is a great way to assist your horse in maintaining a healthy balance of microbes in the cecum.  In turn, the healthy digestion of food results in reduced impact of stress on your horse's system, reduced likelihood of digestion-related illness such as colic and a greater absorption of nutrients for an overall healthy horse.

Mud Fever / Grease Heel / Scratches

If you've ever had to struggle with this blight, you know how stubborn it can be to eradicate. Because I've fought a recent 30-day battle myself, I thought I'd post some suggestions based upon my experience. I tried everything from antibiotics to MTG skin treatment, with no dramatic results. If I had it to do over again, I believe I could have reduced the cure and healing time to less than a week with the following:

• Place a Betadine dilute solution (1:3 ratio) in a spray bottle, and spray affected areas liberally.
• Wait about 5 minutes, until the crusty scabs become softened.
• Very carefully (your horse is not going to want to cooperate) scratch the scabs off completely. Don't be afraid to draw blood!
• Spray once again with Betadine and dry thoroughly with a clean paper towel.
• Spread a cortisone-based cream on the raw surfaces to soothe the exposed sores.
• Follow the cortisone cream with a layer of zinc oxide, to help keep the area dry.
• Apply a final layer of furazone to help 'sweat' out the toxins.
• Wrap loosely with cotton gauze.
• Cover with vet-wrap, being careful not to pull tight and cut off circulation.
• Keep this bandage on and the horse's feet DRY for two days.
• Repeat this application every 2-3 days, until cured.

Emergency Preparedness

Prevention is the best medicine. Good advice for humans as well as horses. As our horse's caretaker, it is our job to minimize the risk of accidents, injuries, and disease.

Very often a paddock that has proven safe to other horses may prove disasterous to a new horse introduced to that environment. Just because other horses have managed to avoid the rusted barrel for years, doesn't mean that your horse won't be the one to lacerate his leg on it.

The point of this is to say that you must always be aware of your horse's environment. The careful owner will find out how her horse can get injured before it actually happens.

Inspect every inch of fence line in paddocks and pastures, as well as stall walls, windows and doors. Before traveling, check your trailer carefully for any exposed sharp edges, soft flooring, or other dangers. Always remove or repair anything that looks dangerous.

To prepare for actual emergencies, you should discuss with your veterinarian any possible horse-related emergency situations. Familiarize yourself with your vets preferences for handling such emergencies. Also be sure to have a 'backup' veterinarian in the event that yours is not available in an emergency.

Often, if a horse's inury or illness is severe, you may need to transport him to an equine 'hospital' facility. Make yourself familiar with the available facilities and know how to get there. Delay in taking a horse to the proper facility can be a fatal mistake.

If you do not own a horse trailer, keep contact information for commercial transportation, or ask permission to borrow a friend's.

Keep a variety of emergency supplies on hand at all times and keep them in a handy place.

Here is a list of items that you should keep on hand:

Hydrogen Peroxide
Antiseptic ointment
Saline solution
Maalox
Large syringe for measuring and administering Maalox
Banamine (injectible or paste)*
Bute *
Digital thermometer

Vetrap

Gauze pads

Gauze rolls

Betadine

Stethoscope

Standing Leg Wraps

Track Bandages

* these are prescription items that must be obtained in advance from your veterinarian